I’ve spent the last few days in the sin-city of Amsterdam where open minds are abundant. People are at whole different level here. Coffee shops don’t sell just coffee and window-shopping has a different meaning. Tolerance is this city’s motto. I love it.

My hostel has a smoking room where tobacco isn’t allowed. People spend their entire day in there. Last night I almost tripped over a guy in the hallway who was on a different kind of trip. His friend told me he was having fungal-dreams. There’s a church in the middle of the red light district. I wonder what kind of sins are confessed there.

I’ve wondered through the alleys of the RDL. It’s kind of like going to the mall, but without the brand names. The girls make eye contact with you and smile. As you walk by they tap on the window enticing you to approach their door. I’ve overhead that “it’s fifty euro for suck and fuck.” It’s a nice little jingle actually – it rhymes. This place is a tourist attraction so there are all sorts of people taking a look. There are couples walking hand-in-hand who are equally interested/amazed, old ladies reminded of their prime, and obviously the asian tourists who are disappointed that they can’t take peek-a-chures. Of course, the majority of people are guys wandering around after spending time drinking in the pubs or smoking in the coffee shops. It’s not unusual to see guys step out of the doors with awkward smiles on their faces. They quickly depart and get lost in the crowds, becoming anonymous. Moments later the girl opens her curtain ready for another. Time is money.

On my second day here, I rented a bike – it costs only €6 a day. Amsterdam is nice and flat so it’s easy to get around on two wheels. The roadways are all bike friendly and everyone rides bikes. On the busier streets it’s organized chaos; somehow it all just works. I’ve only seen one accident where a scooter clipped a cyclist, but no one was hurt and neither party was really that angry. Tolerance.

I’d say there are a lot of people who come to Amsterdam for either the green or the red. However, there are other things to do in this city. So far, I’ve been to the Van Gough museum, the Artis Zoo, the Vondelpark, and of course Klimmuur Centraal.

Van Gough was a bit disappointing for me. I don’t know much about this guy, but I had heard he was eccentric and a little out there. I had anticipated artwork with the same characteristics. Sure some of it was a little strange in a cool way and his painting style was something different and identifiable. I think I was most impressed by his passion for art: He’s also known for many letters he wrote to his brother Theo. In them he discusses everything about his paintings. He talks about how he’s learning new painting techniques, inspirations, self-criticisms of his work, and how he’s excited that maybe, just maybe he’ll sell a painting or two. Although during his time he had gained respect and status, it’s too bad he didn’t become so famous until many years after he died/committed suicide.

The Artis Zoo was my first visit to any zoo. I had never seen zebras or giraffes before. This zoo had all the goods. Monkeys, apes, lions, pelicans, an aquarium, an insectarium, a butterflyarium, and more!

Vondelpark is the Central Park of Amsterdam. I rode a loop around the entire park. There were joggers, people doing Tai Chi, tennis players, picnickers and other cyclists enjoying the park. I think later today I’ll go back there and read my book.

The climbing gym in Amsterdam is pretty good. I only bouldered because I didn’t have a partner, but the climbing walls look amazing with routes that required full rope lengths. We just don’t get to climb long indoor routes in Canada. I was also surprised how easy it was for me to have gym access. I literally walked, said that I wanted to boulder, paid €8, then went climbing! No waiver or anything like that. They didn’t even ask my name.

So now I’m at the Coffee Company drinking a chai latte and using free wifi. I’m outside of the tourist zone hanging with local students and business people. It almost feels like I’m at home.

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The release of Marc Bourdon’s new guidebook has invigorated climbers everywhere, myself included. This is partly due to his list of Top 100 Boulder Problems. I’ve made it a goal to tick as many of those problems off as I can. I’m getting close! I’m 77% of the way through and there are still plenty left that I’m sure I’m capable of doing. I’ve sure picked the list over though. I’m left with problems in areas that I’ve never been to like the Powerline Boulders, problems that are are too hard for me, and a problem that I don’t think should be problem, but still a project (I won’t get into that here, however). This list has been the topic of discussion many times when I’m out in the forest. I often hear people complain about how some of the problems just aren’t that good, or about how some problems that are total gems aren’t on the list. I usually defend Marc by saying that the list is meant to highlight some of the best problems in each of the bouldering areas. And I think it’s great because it’s motivated me to get out to different areas like Paradise Valley, Furry Creek, and the Smoke Bluffs so that I can boulder something new and hopefully good.

The guidebook also has a list of the best highballs that I want to do as well, but aren’t included in the Top 100. On Sunday I tried Black Slabbath, first ascended by Jeremy Blummel, that I couldn’t do. I got about 3/4 of the way up, but then it got really hard! Let me know if you any of you want to try this with me again. Especially if you have foot beta!

I snapped some pics over the weekend. These are all problems from the Top 100 list. Here they are:

Ryan Olson on Ramen Raw, V7


Vikki Weldon on Sunshine and Lollipops, V5


Mike Weldon on Sunshine and Lollipops, V5


Mike Weldon on Enchanted, V4


Vikki Weldon on The Fridge, V7


Mike Weldon on The Fridge, V7

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Sorry, not newly scrubbed problems waiting for second ascents. I’m talking about new problems for me! This weekend I climbed 7 problems that I’ve never done before. This might not seem like a big deal, but for me it’s exciting. Lately I’ve been struggling with motivation to boulder in Squamish. I’m sick of doing the same old circuits and trying my same old projects. Show me something new! So here’s the list of problems I did this weekend.

  • Mr. Bigglesworth Low, V9/10
  • Immunity Challenge, V7
  • Stalling Tim, V10
  • Phantom Power, V8
  • Missing in Action, V7
  • Missing Reaction, V7
  • Prime Time Sit, V5

I’m also a proud owner of the new Squamish Bouldering Guidebook, written by Marc Bourdon. In it are tons of new problems that I’m super psyched to try. Even though I consider myself a Squamish local, there’s no way I can keep up with the latest and greatest. I can’t count the times I’ve had people tell me about newly sent test pieces only to forget their names and where they are 20 minutes later. Thanks Marc, for a fantastic guide!

Picture time!

Ryan Olson on Mr. Bigglesworth Low, V10

Yeah, What?

Vikki Weldon, Monkey Brushing

Vikki Weldon, Killing Me Softly, V6

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It was only 4 or 5 blog posts ago when I wrote about my trip to Europe. A lot of great things happened. I saw France, Italy and Spain. Great memories with people I love. However, some really shitty things happened too. Well really just one bad thing – our car got broken into and a bunch of my stuff was stolen. Taken from me was my Macbook Pro. I had bought it used just a few months previous. It was my first Apple computer and I loved it. With it I felt inspired to write, to edit photos and make movies. But after it was gone I kind of lost the feeling of freedom to contribute to my blog. But things have hopefully changed because this post is being written using a new purchase. It was expensive, it was a tough decision, it was a long wait, but now it’s my new Macbook Pro.

So with this announcement I present a few photos I took in Squamish a few weeks ago. May was a good month. I got in two easy multi-pitches on the Apron, sport climbed in Chek, and bouldered at the North Walls. I climbed at least 5 problems I had never done before. Overall a great introduction to Squamish’s climbing season.

Vikki Weldon


Ryan Olson


Sarah Austin


Rich Kupskay


Yeah yeah… I know there are only two problems with people doing the exact same move! They just turned out to be the best photos of the day!

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This woman is full of a lot of things, including god.

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