Today is our 6th day in Bishop. It will also be our 6th climbing day. We’ve spent the last five days climbing at the Buttermilks. I’ve mainly been taking it easy – climbing nothing harder than V9. A few classics have been sent by our crew. Yesterday we sessioned Checkerboard, which is the Buttermilks only 4 star problem. There were flash sends of Jedi Mind Tricks and some promising attempts on the Buttermilker and Spectre. We did the hike to the Druid stones a few days ago and we’ve yet to go to the Happy Boulders, but that’ll probably happen tomorrow. Sean and I tried The Swarm, which looks so doable, but is crazy hard. I’ll post a few unedited pics here just to show y’all how much fun we’re having!
I’m actually getting excited for this upcoming trip to Bishop. It’s been a long time since I’ve been on a roadtrip. I usually fly to Hueco this time of year and rent a car, but there’s something special about driving for thousands of kilometers to climb. I’ve done the drive to Bishop 4 other times. Normally we go down the I-5 to Sacramento, then bust east towards Lake Tahoe. But a friend suggested we cut east earlier at Mt. Shasta. The route through Susanville is less kilometers, but also less time on the speedy interstate. What do you guys think?
During my 20 minute journey to work this morning I noticed Olympic Volunteers in blue jackets loitering around key public transit areas. I suppose the tourists are starting to arrive in our city eager to take in the many attractions. I just hope they leave with a positive impression – I want them telling their friends and family back home how awesome Vancouver, Squamish and Whistler are!
Speaking of the Olympics, I figure I should put a plug in for a small website I built back in November. It’s a map of Olympic venues – venues2010.com. Do me a favour, click some of the ads! I didn’t put a lot of effort into the site, but it helps earn a little bit of spending money.
There’s just over a week until opening ceremonies here in Vancouver, but even though I really want to join the party, I’m getting the hell out! After some arm-twisting, I’ve decided to join a huge crew of friends for a trip to Bishop – a mecca for huge granite boulders. Sean McColl and myself are driving down together and I think pro-climber Will Stanhope is joining us on the way home. There are a number of other Canadians meeting us in Bishop including the cute couple Vikki Weldon and Ryan Olson. So many good friends and talented climbers. I’m actually more excited to just be roadtripping with these peeps than sending projects. I’m also looking forward to snapping lots of pics. It should be easy to get some mag-worthy photos!
Spring and Summer are just around the corner. I’m excited for a few Leavenworth adventures and definitely multiple trips to Squamish. In September I’ll be going to Edinburgh, Scotland – the host of the 2010 Youth World Championships. I was recently selected to be a coach for the Canadian youth climbing team. It’ll be the 4th World Championships I’ve coached so I hope my past experience will help our young athletes do well. There are lots of changes to the team structure this year. In 3 words: no parents allowed. I’m looking forward to the challenge of supervising 24 kids!
I’ve been so busy since I got home from Europe at the start of this month. Sarah and I bought a condo in North Van. It’s beautiful. We have a view of the city from the 15th floor. Move-in day is this Friday. I’m so excited! Last weekend we did some climbing in Horne Lake. I witnessed Gary Foster redpoint his long standing project, Save the Pushers. Great work meingh!
This weekend I finally got out to Squamish. It was my first day back after 2 months of abstainence! The rock was still pretty wet, but I managed to do a few problems. I went up with Sean McColl, who was motivated to try Dreamcatcher. This route has yet to see a repeat. I got on it earlier this year to just play around. Holy shit does it feel hard. So bouldery! If there’s anyone capable of doing the second ascent, it’s Sean. Especially after I saw him do the route with only 1 fall the other day. He stuck the dyno for his first time ever then easily made his way to the “slots”. Bad news was that the slots were soaking wet. But somehow Sean managed to clip and make two more moves before he wet-fired out. He boinked back up, shook out, then finished the route to the top. No problem! I wager that Sean would have made the 2nd ascent if the holds were dry.
I’ve slowly been adding photos to my Photo Gallery. You can also see them on my Flickr Page. There are some photos from our trip to Europe as well. Take a look and let me know what you think in the comments section. Below is one of my favourites!
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