The last two days were spent on the East side again. Simon and I had unfinished business on Full Service. Our tour started at 9 am and we were up late the night before to pick up Sean and Sonnie. With cold temps and the early morning we lethargically spent a few hours warming up. Sonnie took it pretty easy because of his finger injury. As usual, Sean came out of the gates with a raging fury. He sent a cryptic V9 called Try Harder in a few tries. He also came close to sticking the one move wonder, Liane, which goes at V13. Our crew made its way to the Dragon’s Den which hosts Full Service and a classic V5 called Dragonfly. Simon didn’t spend any time waiting to jump on the project. He threw himself at it a few times but it was clear he wasn’t warm enough. I didn’t feel warm either. It was super cold in the shade. I decided to get on it anyways with the intention of warming up more. Even though I wasn’t giving a redpoint burn, I was able to make a static move to the football hold – the move I was having troubles with before – and topped out. My fingers were numb and while they thawed I watched Sean flash the problem and Simon redpoint. Mission accomplished.
I’ve always been curious about Slashface, a problem originally graded V14, but has since been lowered to V13. Sean, Simon and I quickly realized that the foot sequence was very cryptic, but Sonnie, who witnessed Dave Graham’s near flash, was able to give us some great beta. Even still, the moves felt very hard. It didn’t take long for me to know that I wouldn’t be sending this problem any time soon. Simon came close to sticking the crux move. Sean did the move but couldn’t stay in the next hold for long because it was so painful.
Yesterday was spent at the East Spur Maze and the Gunks. Some of you may have heard of Rules of Chaos, a highball V10/11 originally put up by Jason Kehl a few years ago. Sean and Simon worked out the moves while Sonnie and I videoed and took photos. After discovering a sharp undercling crimp, Sean was able to redpoint. The moves were committing and high, but he fearlessly topped out. Nice send Sean.
I should also mention Simon’s redpoint of Focus, another highball that goes at V10. It took him a few tries to get his flow going, but on his redpoint go he did every move perfectly.
Sonnie’s finger seems to be healing well. He’s been very selective on the problems he gets on. Nothing too crimpy with the right hand, he says. He’s handling it very well in my opinion. If it were me after 5 weeks of no climbing and in a bouldering paradise like Hueco, I would be climbing anything and everything, likely resulting in reinjury.
In a few hours there will be an additional two Canadians joining our sending crew. Vikki Weldon and Jason McColl have been anticipating Hueco bouldering for a long time now. Tomorrow their dreams will be realized.
I’ll leave you guys with a self portrait taken this morning. I’ve never been this manly before. I’m actually quite proud of the fact that my asian genes can even grow this much facial hair. What do you think? Is it me?
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you know you’re american when you drop ‘your canadian when…’ jokes.
you know you’re canadian when you drop a russell peters reference