Today is our 6th day in Bishop. It will also be our 6th climbing day. We’ve spent the last five days climbing at the Buttermilks. I’ve mainly been taking it easy – climbing nothing harder than V9. A few classics have been sent by our crew. Yesterday we sessioned Checkerboard, which is the Buttermilks only 4 star problem. There were flash sends of Jedi Mind Tricks and some promising attempts on the Buttermilker and Spectre. We did the hike to the Druid stones a few days ago and we’ve yet to go to the Happy Boulders, but that’ll probably happen tomorrow. Sean and I tried The Swarm, which looks so doable, but is crazy hard. I’ll post a few unedited pics here just to show y’all how much fun we’re having!

I’m actually getting excited for this upcoming trip to Bishop. It’s been a long time since I’ve been on a roadtrip. I usually fly to Hueco this time of year and rent a car, but there’s something special about driving for thousands of kilometers to climb. I’ve done the drive to Bishop 4 other times. Normally we go down the I-5 to Sacramento, then bust east towards Lake Tahoe. But a friend suggested we cut east earlier at Mt. Shasta. The route through Susanville is less kilometers, but also less time on the speedy interstate. What do you guys think?

Google Maps says: 1764km, 20 hours 26 minutes

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Google Maps says: 1889 km, 20 hours 6 minutes

During my 20 minute journey to work this morning I noticed Olympic Volunteers in blue jackets loitering around key public transit areas. I suppose the tourists are starting to arrive in our city eager to take in the many attractions. I just hope they leave with a positive impression – I want them telling their friends and family back home how awesome Vancouver, Squamish and Whistler are!

Speaking of the Olympics, I figure I should put a plug in for a small website I built back in November. It’s a map of Olympic venues – venues2010.com. Do me a favour, click some of the ads! I didn’t put a lot of effort into the site, but it helps earn a little bit of spending money.

There’s just over a week until opening ceremonies here in Vancouver, but even though I really want to join the party, I’m getting the hell out! After some arm-twisting, I’ve decided to join a huge crew of friends for a trip to Bishop – a mecca for huge granite boulders. Sean McColl and myself are driving down together and I think pro-climber Will Stanhope is joining us on the way home. There are a number of other Canadians meeting us in Bishop including the cute couple Vikki Weldon and Ryan Olson. So many good friends and talented climbers. I’m actually more excited to just be roadtripping with these peeps than sending projects. I’m also looking forward to snapping lots of pics. It should be easy to get some mag-worthy photos!

Spring and Summer are just around the corner. I’m excited for a few Leavenworth adventures and definitely multiple trips to Squamish. In September I’ll be going to Edinburgh, Scotland – the host of the 2010 Youth World Championships. I was recently selected to be a coach for the Canadian youth climbing team. It’ll be the 4th World Championships I’ve coached so I hope my past experience will help our young athletes do well. There are lots of changes to the team structure this year. In 3 words: no parents allowed. I’m looking forward to the challenge of supervising 24 kids!

I haven’t had the chance to write recently so to make up for it I’m posting a bunch of photos taken over the last few days. Vikki Weldon and Jason McColl were treated to a tour of West Mountain for their first climbing day in Hueco. I had never been there either and I was excited to try Best of the West and The Feather. We warmed up on a long V6 called Long Dong then gave some burns on Scream, a classic V10. Sonnie and I both came close after watching Sean demonstrate it for us but in the end our tips couldn’t handle the texture of the sloper.

We then began the long trek to The Feather. We basically had to traverse all of West Mountain. A half hour later we were in front of the problem. So, so beautiful. Sean almost flashed the problem and at first I couldn’t even touch it. There is a throw move that I couldn’t do. It felt like I didn’t have enough body tension. But Sean found a crucial toe hook that allowed me to make the move. After a few burns of falling from the crux over the lip, Sean sent then I followed. Doing V11s in a few hours is piss for Sean, but for me it’s quite an accomplishment. I’m also psyched that I don’t have to hike back to the problem.

The last few climbing days have been at the East Spur Maze and North Mountain. We all have projects  and we all feel the pressure of getting them done before our roadtrip ends. I’m super close to Luthor, a lowball V12 that links into Chablanke. I’m actually going to walk over there now and give it a redpoint attempt. So wish me luck. I’ll see you soon for some holiday partying. Enjoy the photos!

The last two days were spent on the East side again. Simon and I had unfinished business on Full Service. Our tour started at 9 am and we were up late the night before to pick up Sean and Sonnie. With cold temps and the early morning we lethargically spent a few hours warming up. Sonnie took it pretty easy because of his finger injury. As usual, Sean came out of the gates with a raging fury. He sent a cryptic V9 called Try Harder in a few tries. He also came close to sticking the one move wonder, Liane, which goes at V13. Our crew made its way to the Dragon’s Den which hosts Full Service and a classic V5 called Dragonfly. Simon didn’t spend any time waiting to jump on the project. He threw himself at it a few times but it was clear he wasn’t warm enough. I didn’t feel warm either. It was super cold in the shade. I decided to get on it anyways with the intention of warming up more. Even though I wasn’t giving a redpoint burn, I was able to make a static move to the football hold – the move I was having troubles with before – and topped out. My fingers were numb and while they thawed I watched Sean flash the problem and Simon redpoint. Mission accomplished.

I’ve always been curious about Slashface, a problem originally graded V14, but has since been lowered to V13. Sean, Simon and I quickly realized that the foot sequence was very cryptic, but Sonnie, who witnessed Dave Graham’s near flash, was able to give us some great beta. Even still, the moves felt very hard. It didn’t take long for me to know that I wouldn’t be sending this problem any time soon. Simon came close to sticking the crux move. Sean did the move but couldn’t stay in the next hold for long because it was so painful.

Yesterday was spent at the East Spur Maze and the Gunks. Some of you may have heard of Rules of Chaos, a highball V10/11 originally put up by Jason Kehl a few years ago. Sean and Simon worked out the moves while Sonnie and I videoed and took photos. After discovering a sharp undercling crimp, Sean was able to redpoint. The moves were committing and high, but he fearlessly topped out. Nice send Sean.

I should also mention Simon’s redpoint of Focus, another highball that goes at V10. It took him a few tries to get his flow going, but on his redpoint go he did every move perfectly.

Sonnie’s finger seems to be healing well. He’s been very selective on the problems he gets on. Nothing too crimpy with the right hand, he says. He’s handling it very well in my opinion. If it were me after 5 weeks of no climbing and in a bouldering paradise like Hueco, I would be climbing anything and everything, likely resulting in reinjury.

In a few hours there will be an additional two Canadians joining our sending crew. Vikki Weldon and Jason McColl have been anticipating Hueco bouldering for a long time now. Tomorrow their dreams will be realized.

I’ll leave you guys with a self portrait taken this morning. I’ve never been this manly before. I’m actually quite proud of the fact that my asian genes can even grow this much facial hair. What do you think? Is it me?