I haven’t had the chance to write recently so to make up for it I’m posting a bunch of photos taken over the last few days. Vikki Weldon and Jason McColl were treated to a tour of West Mountain for their first climbing day in Hueco. I had never been there either and I was excited to try Best of the West and The Feather. We warmed up on a long V6 called Long Dong then gave some burns on Scream, a classic V10. Sonnie and I both came close after watching Sean demonstrate it for us but in the end our tips couldn’t handle the texture of the sloper.

We then began the long trek to The Feather. We basically had to traverse all of West Mountain. A half hour later we were in front of the problem. So, so beautiful. Sean almost flashed the problem and at first I couldn’t even touch it. There is a throw move that I couldn’t do. It felt like I didn’t have enough body tension. But Sean found a crucial toe hook that allowed me to make the move. After a few burns of falling from the crux over the lip, Sean sent then I followed. Doing V11s in a few hours is piss for Sean, but for me it’s quite an accomplishment. I’m also psyched that I don’t have to hike back to the problem.

The last few climbing days have been at the East Spur Maze and North Mountain. We all have projects  and we all feel the pressure of getting them done before our roadtrip ends. I’m super close to Luthor, a lowball V12 that links into Chablanke. I’m actually going to walk over there now and give it a redpoint attempt. So wish me luck. I’ll see you soon for some holiday partying. Enjoy the photos!

The last two days were spent on the East side again. Simon and I had unfinished business on Full Service. Our tour started at 9 am and we were up late the night before to pick up Sean and Sonnie. With cold temps and the early morning we lethargically spent a few hours warming up. Sonnie took it pretty easy because of his finger injury. As usual, Sean came out of the gates with a raging fury. He sent a cryptic V9 called Try Harder in a few tries. He also came close to sticking the one move wonder, Liane, which goes at V13. Our crew made its way to the Dragon’s Den which hosts Full Service and a classic V5 called Dragonfly. Simon didn’t spend any time waiting to jump on the project. He threw himself at it a few times but it was clear he wasn’t warm enough. I didn’t feel warm either. It was super cold in the shade. I decided to get on it anyways with the intention of warming up more. Even though I wasn’t giving a redpoint burn, I was able to make a static move to the football hold – the move I was having troubles with before – and topped out. My fingers were numb and while they thawed I watched Sean flash the problem and Simon redpoint. Mission accomplished.

I’ve always been curious about Slashface, a problem originally graded V14, but has since been lowered to V13. Sean, Simon and I quickly realized that the foot sequence was very cryptic, but Sonnie, who witnessed Dave Graham’s near flash, was able to give us some great beta. Even still, the moves felt very hard. It didn’t take long for me to know that I wouldn’t be sending this problem any time soon. Simon came close to sticking the crux move. Sean did the move but couldn’t stay in the next hold for long because it was so painful.

Yesterday was spent at the East Spur Maze and the Gunks. Some of you may have heard of Rules of Chaos, a highball V10/11 originally put up by Jason Kehl a few years ago. Sean and Simon worked out the moves while Sonnie and I videoed and took photos. After discovering a sharp undercling crimp, Sean was able to redpoint. The moves were committing and high, but he fearlessly topped out. Nice send Sean.

I should also mention Simon’s redpoint of Focus, another highball that goes at V10. It took him a few tries to get his flow going, but on his redpoint go he did every move perfectly.

Sonnie’s finger seems to be healing well. He’s been very selective on the problems he gets on. Nothing too crimpy with the right hand, he says. He’s handling it very well in my opinion. If it were me after 5 weeks of no climbing and in a bouldering paradise like Hueco, I would be climbing anything and everything, likely resulting in reinjury.

In a few hours there will be an additional two Canadians joining our sending crew. Vikki Weldon and Jason McColl have been anticipating Hueco bouldering for a long time now. Tomorrow their dreams will be realized.

I’ll leave you guys with a self portrait taken this morning. I’ve never been this manly before. I’m actually quite proud of the fact that my asian genes can even grow this much facial hair. What do you think? Is it me?

I left off with a description of our first day in Hueco. Our second day was just as much fun. While I wasn’t feeling that strong, Simon crushed everything he got on. He sent three V10s (one was flashed) and redpointed a V11. I don’t think I’ve ever had a day like that before. Simon’s endurance is phenomenal, but to achieve it he works only two days a week and doesn’t go to school. Simon, your a bum. Freaking strong though, and I’m jealous that you get to climb so much.

We didn’t have any reservations booked for this weekend so Simon and I signed up for volunteer tours. The park hasn’t been as busy as I had expected so getting a guide was easy. On Saturday we went to East Spur with a great group of people. We did some warming up on the Donkey Show boulder then meandered to The Maze. James and Matt, two dudes from Colorado, worked on Better Eat Your Wheaties, a hard V8 that Simon flashed. I gave burns on Crown of Aragorn. There was one move I couldn’t do, obviously the crux, but hopefully I’ll be strong enough to do that move by the end of the trip. A while later some of us tried Jingus Bells, a five-star V5. I didn’t get on this problem. I still have bad memories of twisting my ankle after falling off the dyno during my first trip to Hueco (popped a pinky tendon that same day).

Our group then moved to the Gunks to try New Religion. I played on Full Monty, another problem that I want to send this trip. I’ve done all the moves except the last one so hopefully I just need another day. Simon attempted Focus, but couldn’t get past a sloper that was baking in the sun.

Today we went to East Mountain. I’m doing my best to have my skin endure the tip-torture it receives everytime I touch rock so I took it easy. To pass the time, I took a lot of photos, including a few of some fellow Canadians we met earlier this week. Later we moved to the Dragonfly boulder which also hosts Full Service, a benchmark V10. I’ve got this problem on my tick list so I threw myself at it. I’ve been on it before so the sequence leading up the crux wasn’t too hard for me. However, making the move to the football hold has always eluded me. I just can’t reach it using the standard knee-drop beta, but I found another sequence. I came real close to redpointing it, but I didn’t have quite enough energy. In fact three of us, Simon, Oliver, and I all fell going to the football hold. Consequently we booked another tour for Wednesday so we can all go redpoint!

Sonnie Trotter and Sean McColl are joining us on Tuesday. I’m looking forward to climbing with those guys. Then on Friday Vikki Weldon and Jason McColl arrive. Climbing with five friends is gonna be so much fun!

Today was a great start to a roadtrip. In my last post I mentioned how I was curious to see how in shape I was compared to last year. I figured that attempts on Diaphanous Sea would be a good measure. So this morning, after warming up, I got on it. What a difference a year of bouldering makes! I made quick progress working out the first three moves then on my first attempt at linking them up I stuck the cruxy throw move! The last few moves were unknown territory for me and unfortunately I fell after my heel blew. Two tries later I got to the same spot, but this time I stayed real tight. Tight enough to topout! Diaphanous was seriously the only problem I really really wanted to redpoint this trip and I got it over with on my first day…so PSYCHED!

We then walked up the hill to Power of Silence, a stout V10 that Simon wanted to get on. He pieced together the problem quite well and half an hour later he got his hand into the slot, one move from the top. Setting up on this hold correctly is a crux on it’s own and Simon didn’t get the finger lock quite right – you need to do some more crack climbing, Simon. Frustrated, he threw himself at it for another 30 minutes, but in the end he decided to move on and leave it for another day. He’ll do it for sure.

Feeling tired from the travelling yesterday and the hard pulling today we decided to go to the other side of North Mountain and try some of the easy classics. We did Nobody Here Gets Out Alive and Ghetto Simulator. Then a guy we met earlier, Jim, came by and conviced us to go look at a new Jason Kehl highball V5. We didn’t have any pads and neither did he. Right away I said there was no way I was going to get on it and Simon didn’t blame me. The thing is high. I told Jim that I’d give him a spot but really, with no pads there wasn’t much I could do if he pitched. The guy crushed it. He made it look so easy and that encouraged me to try it. He spewed some beta and before I could think too clearly I jumped on it. The first few moves were fine and I quickly got about 15 feet off the deck… to the crux. I committed myself on a right hand sloper with a high left foot. I need to rock over my foot and secure a good slot-edge. Jim, who’s over six feet tall, didn’t have any troubles. I could barely reach it. Without waiting for the fear to take over I powered myself to the next hold off the shitty sloper. I was just shy of it and somehow managed to intermediate off nothing and bump an inch further to the hold. I crimped it so hard! I matched, went to the lip, and quickly got my body over the 20 foot topout. Holy Shit! I spooked myself big time. Whenever I think about it I shake my head. It was dumb to get on something unknown that was really high and without a single pad or spotter below me. You know those near-misses that make you think about what could have happened? That’s what it’s like for me. All I can say is that I’m glad I didn’t begin my trip with two broken legs and a fractured skull.

We had a very good introduction to our December Hueco session. Tomorrow we’re going to spend some time on Free Willy, Right Martini and Loaded With Power. As for the rest of tonight…it’s time for bed.

I’m currently sitting at gate E79 waiting for my flight to Dallas then to El Paso. Simon Parton is with me… barely. He got caught up in US customs cause they thought there was no mountain climbing in Hueco. Climbing starts tomorrow with a reservation to North Mountain. I’m planning to try Diaphanous Sea right away. It will be a good test to see if I’ve gotten any stronger since my last trip to Hueco last February.

I’m armed with camera equipment too. My most recent aquisition is a Sigma 10-20mm ultra wide-angle lens. It’s going to be a lot of fun testing it out this trip. Expect to see photo posts often.

Unrelated to climbing is a video I watched the other day. I’ve seen videos like it before but this one was definitely eye-opening. It’s called Zeitgeist. The movie is rather long and the first five minutes are just filler but make sure you watch it. I’d love to hear your opinions in the comment section.

I’m back on the 22nd. I hope all of you have a great December!

And here’s that video.

What do Christianity, 9/11 and the Federal Reserve all have in common?